‘Every Cook Ought to Study At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Earns 4th on Roll of London’s Best Restaurants.

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest place securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary honour.